Tuesday, 19 November 2024

Belem

A short train journey alongside the river Tejo takes one to Belem. I had been here before and liked it and thought it would be a good day out with Mike.

We started along the riverside which has two notable features, built nearly 500 years apart. The modern one sited next to the marina is the Monument to the Discoveries, built in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator.








The second building overlooking the river is the somewhat fancier (and much photographed) Tower of Belem, which opened in 1520.







I had hoped to visit it, but unfortunately it was closed due to a strike, so instead we visited the military museum nearby. This  actually offered a very informative history if Portugal through its armed forces including it colonial adventures






It included a mock up of world war one trenches

but what I really wanted to take Mike to see was the UNESCO world heritage site of Mosteiros dos Jeronimos, an extremely distinctive monastic building. However, it was at this point we discovered the full implications of the strike that had closed the Tower. It was a strike of public service workers. So there was no one to sell tickets. So no chance to visit. Which did create rather a hole in our day.





So really we had to make the most of a visit to somewhere I hadn't been to, the enticingly named Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology. mostly contained in an old power station, plus a modern extension, or rather adjacent building.

Now if you are into early twentieth century power stations this is the place for you
Scattered about there are a few display cases with ancient artefacts, like this Roman inscription



But mostly it is just about the power station, and what a horrible job it was working turning coal into electricity between the dust and the heat. I wouldn't have fancied doing the laundry!




SO great power station, but it lacked much in the way of art, architecture or generally technology other than electivity generation.

But next door was the modern art gallery, and this was an impressive bit of architecture. Very striking design and one could climb the slope of its roof (barring the bits where the slabs were already failing) for views over the river.










 I have not taken any photos of the contemporary art exhibition inside. Because there was nothing interesting enough to photograph. Just tat masquerading as art. Very disappointing.


At least the river is attractive. Belem is worth visiting. But not on a strike day.


 

Sintra - Palacio Nacional

We did get to see one palace on our visit to Sintra, The Palacio Nacional which is also the oldest royal palace in Portugal, dating back to the 15th century but with many additions by later royals. It was well worth the visit. There are a lot of rooms. The most defining feature from the outside are the huge chimneys from the kitchens. As you can see it has a commanding spot on the hill.








And at various points there are good views to be had from the palace


You can see why this is called the Hall of Swans












Hall of Magpies






















The Sala das Brasoes, with a domed ceiling of 72 coats of arms representing the Portuguese nobility. The most spectacular room in the palace between the ceiling and the blue tiled walls












The kitchens are enormous