Clarissa had been wanting me to take her to Margate for ages, but we hadn't managed to find a date. And then suddenly one became available, and so we went down for a day trip. I had heard mixed reviews for the town. Yes the Turner Gallery plus some good restaurants, but it hadn't come up as far as some people made out. I think after our trip that is a very fair assessment.
Coming out of the station and heading into town the first thing you are confronted with is this massive slum block of flats. Even some nice planting in the foreground can't disguise it as an eyesore.
There is undoubtedly a nice, expansive beach.
We essentially arrived in time for lunch so we skirted the beach to come to a restaurant overlooking the Bay
We passed the very impressive tourist information office. Impressive from the outside. Inside there were lots of "welcome to..." leaflets for neighbouring towns. Nothing for Margate....
So, decent view from our bar/restaurant, Sargasso
Slightly unfortunate choice though. Firstly because the worst of the day's weather was while we sat outside here. Sunny when we arrived, but clouded over and got windy. But also the food was only ok, but at top quality prices. You may think there are two glasses of wine below. No one is my cider. Portions were on the minimal scale. I mean yes small plates, but some were very small.
While Clarissa liked most the aubergine dish a little further down, she is just wrong. Consummately the best was the chorizo. But if you are a restaurant its a little disappointing that the highlight is how you sliced a sausage. Full marks for sourcing ingredients, but not cooking them...
Then we had a little walk around. There are some nice enough old buildings, but where in similar tourist spots you might expect to find antique shops, here they are junk shops, complete with the musty smell of second hand clothes.
We had three tourist sites on our itinerary. The first was the shell grotto. This has a large shop (mostly selling sea shells) and tea room, before you descend into the underground grotto. The bloke selling us tickets started warning us to mind our heads but stopped himself when looking at our height. I feel his admonition on no running and jumping was slightly unnecessary. Do I look the sort of person who would go running and jumping?

This place was actually quite fascinating. I picked up the guidebook to find out more. It seems the grotto was found in the mid 19th century, but no one knows when or who actually built it. Tudor, 18th or 19th century, or Roman? Or even Phoenician traders who are known to have used the Thanet as a base. Normally you just send something off for carbon dating, but here the only materials are the shells and the mortar with which they are adhered to the walls. And rather like England's huge chalk hillside monuments, even if you can get a date for the material, the shells will have been replaced regularly over time, so unless you strip the lot you can't be sure of getting original material to test.
There are millions of shells, so this was no minor undertaking. It s difficult to imagine someone building this in secret, which does seem to point to it being of ancient origin rather than more recent historic times. Also while all but two shells are British, a lot are not local to Margate. The thousands of winkles should have come from the West Country, maybe Cornwall, which is where the Phoenicians went to trade for tin. So a lot of effort went into this. And we are not getting the best view of it all. The original shells would have been much more colourful.
A mystery.
The second site was Margate's cave system. Here we do know what they are. This was a limestone mine. They came and hollowed out the area, leaving just enough standing stone (in arches) to avoid the mine roof collapsing. Since its mining days it has been decorated with a series of naive paintings.
Finally, the only thing Margate is really famous for, the Turner Gallery for Contemporary Arts. Only one photo here. The exterior is industrial and quite unattractive and inside it was described as "partially closed" because a new exhibition was opening shortly. A better description would have been "almost entirely closed". Only the bookshop, tea room, this rather basic, simple stained glass window, clearly created by an artist of very limited skill, and a wall of art by local youngsters (think what you would expect to see in any comprehensive school corridor) were actually open. Clarissa spent longer using the toilet than looking at the gallery. By a long chalk.
So back along the beach before dinner
We resorted to a pub we had seen along our walk earlier. This was a genius move. Lovely big beer garden, excellent drink selection, plenty of atmosphere. We had intended to just sit and read, but we just sat and chatted. And had a second round of drinks.
And finally dinner at Dory's. Similar style to our lunch venue but just much better food and service (well excluding how long it took to get the bill at the end.) Whereas at Sargasso everything was fine and edible, here everything was delicious.
Stand out dish was this - basically charred cabbage . Hispi cabbage. Sweet and tender. One doesn't expect to rave about half a cabbage, but honestly, yum.
And couldn't resist the vanilla ice cream and the chocolate truffles.