Greenwich

Saturday being bright and sunny, with storms forecast for later, I thought I would take advantage of the nice crisp day with a trip to Greenwich on the Docklands Light Railway, which serving East London as it does, I rarely get to use. And didn't this time either as I found the whole DLR was out due to engineering works. Replacement bus is just not the same. Undaunted I took a round about trip via a couple of overground trains.

An inauspicious start, but Greenwich, for those who don't know it, is quite special for a number of reasons. It was one of those places that grew up separately before being engulfed by London. It has a fine set of historic vernacular brick houses, before one even gets to the main points of architectural interest, the Royal Naval College, the Queens House and the Royal Observatory (more on these anon). But to start here are some the more mundane houses, although these do include the home of Benjamin Waugh (founder of the NSPCC), McCartney House (no not London residence of Paul, but of General Wolfe) and the Ranger's House (which was the home of the Ranger of Greenwich Park.

(Waugh's House)

(McCartney House)

(The Rangers House)

Greenwich Park itself is nice enough for a walk (or jog as many people seem to do). A fine place for trees as it has some very old ones, including this sweet chestnut from the 1660s, looking its age to be fair

but with many others too. So for dendrophiles amongst you not shocked by naked trees....

And the park has its fair share of wildlife (given the urban surroundings) with ubiquitous grey squirrels (of course) interesting ducks (I think these may be pochards but stand to be corrected) and even a forlorn little deer park behind a series of wire fences.

But why do most people visit the park from afar? Well firstly the venerable Royal Observatory

Then the views across London, mostly to Canary Wharf and the Millennium dome, but also of course to the Royal Naval College and Queens House below, which make an interesting contrast of old and new.

 All overlooked by the statue of General Wolfe, given a spot of real prominence.

Exiting the park to the East one comes across Vanburgh's House, a mix of turrets and battlements for a Georgian gentleman (the Architect Sir John Vanburgh, built for him when appointed as architect to Greenwich Hospital).

Coming down the hill you eventually reach riverside, which is itself an interesting spot with old pubs like the Cutty Sark and the Trafalgar, atmospheric little lanes and good views across the river itself.

And then you get to the main event, The Royal Naval College and Queens House. This looks like a palace complex, and that's what was originally intended. The Queens House came first, then the larger buildings that surrounded it became Greenwich Hospital, a Royal hospital for wounded seamen (the naval equivalent of Chelsea hospital), which then got taken over as the Royal Naval College. The college moved out in the last century and its struggled to find a use since, now being split between the National Maritime Museum and Greenwich University. I will need another trip to visit the Museum, but I did enjoy the Queens House with its collection of maritime related oil paintings. As you will note, perhaps owing to Christmas shopping, the place wasn't exactly overrun by visitors.

In the middle of the college (and like so much of London's wonders, free to enter if you only know its there) is the Painted Hall & Chapel. Once again we owe so much to the religious minds of our forefathers, who clearly felt that what wounded seamen would find most solace in is a massive decorated chapel and proceeded to build this magnificent edifice, rather than waste their money on food or care for the poor, who, as we are told, will always be with us. So something lavish and ever so slightly gay would be a better use of funds. And here it is today for us still to gawp at. Spectacular. Especially the ceiling and the Benjamin West altarpiece.

 As I say, one part of the complex is now turned into college buildings - you can just see the modern fittings through the old arch here.

 And the rest is turned over to National Maritime Museum.

Which also owns the Queen's House where its art collection is held. Which is worth seeing in its own right, but the House, built by James I (well rather by Inigo Jones) for Queen Anne of Denmark is rather more spectacular than its contents. I love the colonnades, the sweeping views, the fine marble floors and the staircases.

(Inigo Jones if you don't recognise him)

As it was turning dark I decided to head home rather than explore Greenwich market, with a couple of last shots before the light went.

And finally, as I was taking some photos close to the river, a slightly inebriated middle-aged couple clearly in love (sweet) asked me if I would take their photo. So here it is, random couple, your moment of fame.

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