Beijing day 5

For our last day in Beijing we went on a walk around a different side to the City, through the old Hutongs (alleys) - a million miles (well not as the crow flies) from the modern streets and department stores of new Beijing. We did a couple of hours walk around a district called Hou Hai. As well as just the atmosphere of the place we did take in some sights, as much as anything else to see traditional but non-Imperial Beijing.

First stop was Mei Lanfang Memorial Hall, a traditional courtyard house now a museum for the greatest star of Beijing Opera. Although the blurb extolled the virtues of this an artform, I am afraid it just made us giggle. Lots of high-pitched squeaking and exaggerated hand gestures and cross-dressing in preposterous costumes. It did give us however the most amusing headline of heroism ever.....

Well its not exactly like single-handedly destroying an enemy's gun placement or withstanding days of torture without cracking. I think the point was that by growing a moustache he couldn't play the roles of young girls for which Mei was apparently famous.

 

This was a catholic college once upon a time

Then we came to a rather more popular tourist sight - exclusively popular with local Chinese tourists - the Mansion of Prince Gong. Despite the appearance of some of the photos below of some of the side courtyards, believe me the place was thronged with local tour groups.

 The compact gardens of this mansion were the most attractive part.

Thibault taking a deep interest in the snails covering this rock. They might be on the menu tonight.

After the mansion we hit real tourist territory - the Back Lakes. Scenic as you can see, and lined with almost identical Western style bars. We settled into one that had a tables which were open to the street as the large glass windows/doors were open, allowing us a bit of people-watching. But the main thing we were watching were the locals staring at us. This is somewhat surprising as although there weren't many westerners about we were surely not all that strange a sight. But we had already had Chinese people approach us in the street to ask if they could have our photos taken with them. Here I was most surprised as while sitting in this window a passing middle-aged woman just launched herself at me, shoved me along my bench seat and had her husband photograph her with me. Now I know what Brad Pitt must feel like.

 The end part of our walk in this district should have been visits to these two towers - the Drum Tower in front and the Bell Tower beyond. Unfortunately, although we were there before their advertised closing times, they had closed anyway.

An honest description of a fast food joint. No point in pinning down exactly what creatures you might be frying.

Not sure the food outside restaurants is calculated to woo western diners. These ducks look like they have been judicially executed for excess quacking in a built up area.

As close as we got to the Bell Tower

 Our last sight of the day was the Confucius Temple. We only just got in with three minutes to spare and we could see the ticket seller looking up at the clock hoping she could refuse us entrance. Which would have been a pity as although one of the lesser-known sights, it was one of the nicest we visited, if only for the serenity.

Although this looks like a Chinese guillotine, its actually a bell

Lovely twisted old cypresses

Thibault in contemplative mode. Confucius says...

These stones are actually lists of the names of successful candidates for the Chinese civil service who passes the requisite exams, so a sort of university honour board.

Local vegetable market

Catholic church

And for a final night we thought we would go back to that wonderful duck restaurant. We thought we would, but when we got there they announced they had no duck on the menu that night. Grr! In a fit of pique we headed back to the group of restaurants in the mall and went to this hot pot place. You got a steaming vat of soup - in our case chicken and then bought vegetables, mushrooms and ham and cooked them in the soup. Looks wonderful doesn't it? Appearances can be deceptive. By far our most expensive meal and thoroughly disappointing. Really tasteless, the quality of the chicken was rubbish.