Temple of Luxor (And Dealing with Egyptians III)

And to end my day in Luxor, Luxor Temple. This regrettably forms a traffic island in the centre of Luxor, which somewhat detracts from the feel of the place. Especially the most sacred part at the end which has cars dashing by a few yards away. However to get to the temple one first has to deal with the locals...

Dealing with Egyptians III

Again I walked to the temple, although again the actual entrance is not really signposted. I don't think you are meant to find it, but pay someone to take you there. Nevertheless as I was going, another  carriage driver shouted out to me to take a ride. And having declined his offer to take me to the bazaar he then chased after me to warn me that the temple was closed so there was no point in me continuing. Of course, a complete lie as I was only a couple of minutes from finding out. Rule of thumb, never believe a word an Egyptian says. They have no shame. Egyptian Scam Number 3 

I duly bought my ticket. I gave the seller  200 pound note. I got two 5s back. He didn't actually refuse to give me the 50 pound  note that was the rest of the change, just produced it very very slowly, clearly hoping that I wouldn't have looked at the change he had given but just move on. Eventually he handed it over. Egyptian Scam 4

 As with Karnak, the sheer scale of the temple is astonishing, especially when you realise it was built about 1300BC, centuries before the Parthenon.

 In parts little bits of faded original colours remain.

  The temple had history. It was further altered by the Romans, and then had a life as an early christian basilica. It still has a mosque incorporated into it.

19th century vandalism

To one side is a small Roman temple, now cut down to the bases of pillars. And hard on to the temple site you see the modern shops and flats. And these are some of the best of the modern buildings. 

The mosque which was built into the site and which really should be removed to reveal the remaining ancient archaeology.

 Below is the other end of the row of sphinxes that started at Karnak (see previous page)

I had deliberately timed my visit to Luxor Temple to see it both in late afternoon sunshine and in the dark, when the complex is illuminated. So basically I just went right back to the entrance and proceeded through the temple all over again, now in twilight, and beyond.

The mosque somewhat gaudily lit up and sitting on the base of original ancient construction.

On finally leaving the temple I had to await my shuttle bus. So once more had to brave the Egyptians.

Dealing with Egyptians 4

The most vociferous was a fast talking young Nubian man whom I tried to ignore. Try as I might he offered me the services of a prostitute. And on refusal I think I was offered gay sex instead, which I took by the question "You looking for black banana?" I don't think I was being offered an overripe form of vitamin C. I was quite proud of my reply. "No, I am looking for my minibus" At least he gave up. Egyptian Scam 5