Ara Pacis and the Villa Borghese

Today I ventured to the north of Rome, so I started by sauntering up the Tiber.

 First sight to see was the Ara Pacis, the altar of Augustan Peace, which is now a bit of an amalgam between ancient and modern, the ancient monument now being wrapped in a modernist box. Not an unhappy marriage in my view, although there isn't really that much to see when all is said and done.

The Altar at night

By contrast to the well-polished Ara Pacis, across the road is Augustus' Mausoleum, which should be more impressive than it is. Closed off to the public with oodles of scaffolding and fencing (and no work being done) it looks very sad and neglected. Obviously a pity as the two monuments together would make a much more interesting ensemble.

Heading on up the Via del Corso one comes to the spacious Piazza del Popolo. You can go through Bernini's Porta del Popolo

 and then after enjoying the space,

 

 you can make the climb up past the fountains to the Pincio Gardens, gateway to Villa Borghese.

 There was a modern art exhibition at the entrance.

The Villa Borghese isn't a villa, its the whole park. And a very attractive one, encompassing a number of attractive buildings

 But the real reason for venturing here is the Galleria Borghese. Yet another brilliant collection of antique statues and renaissance painting. "Booking essential" said my guide book. Not in January it wasn't. Unfortunately photographs not allowed inside, but the exterior gives you an idea of the richness. To name-drop, Caravaggio, Rubens, Bernini,... you get the picture.

As it was heading towards dusk,

and after spending the previous  night puking, I was a bit too tired to try the modern art gallery, so I satisfied myself with a visit to the Villa Giulia to complete my day's sightseeing. This hold's Rome's collection of Etruscan art, almost all recovered from Etruscan tombs near Rome. The Etruscans eventually became assimilated into Republican Rome, but their earlier influences came from links with Greek communities before Rome became powerful. Anyway, an interesting collection. And a deserted one. Ever so quiet.

Inside an Etruscan tomb chamber

Remnants from an Etruscan temple

Then back via the beautifully lit Via de Corso. Rather more refined than London's gaudy Xmas lights.