Monday 28 January 2019

Savannah


Savannah is a delightful and distinctive city, not much like most others I have visited in the US. It is also quite multi layered, so, for example, the Waterfront, which was a reasonable spot for us to start exploring, has quite a different feel to the streets just behind it. It is also probably not the prettiest part of the city, with lots of tourist shops, modern hotels and the remains of the industrial port, alongside some genuinely historic buildings.





Behind the waterfront it is a city of squares and parks, and almost uniquely for the US, a city where pedestrians have priority over cars. It is definitely a place to walk around.
It also shows off its place in American  history, both Independence and Civil War, with numerous plaques, memorials and statues. It would repay a really methodical exploration.


Essentially, just behind the Waterfront was the main commercial centre, now largely shops and markets rather than commercial offices.








The Colonial Cemetery was just a wonderful spooky area - it reminded me very much of so many American Gothic horror stories with the looming drooping trees.




Cathedral of St Johns

The architecture is just amazing, and so well preserved. Some houses date back to British rule, many to pre-Civil War days. A lot of information boards are scattered around to tell you more, although almost all of these large houses are just private homes.. This is a place with a sense of pride and interest in its past.


But one house that has been turned into a museum is this one, the Owens Thomas House. It was originally built for a shipping merchant and his wife with their 6 kids and nine slaves. It gave a very good insight into living at that time, including the technology. The pretty courtyard is not original, in that originally it would have been a smelly working area with scattered chickens, not a pristine garden. But I am quite happy with a more modern addition. Indeed, would love a garden like that.












Architecturally the house is very interesting and original in design, notably this walkway across the landing at the top of the stairs.



Our hotel was the Planters Inn on Reynolds Square, a really beautiful historic building. A very fine choice. Frankly the hotel rooms were almost as nice as the museum.



We had dinner at the Old Pink House next door. Lovely spot. This is old world style (not Olde Worlde, if you catch my drift (and yes I know we were in the New World) - it isn't tarted up to be a fake). Food was very good, but even waiting for our table and chatting to locals was just a delightful experience. One of the guys there was an engineer whose main knowledge of England was Luton (my birthplace). It is a small and unlikely world.

So after a good nights sleep and dinner, we set about exploring the many squares of Savannah. All beautiful





Cathedral of St John's was very photogenic on a day of peerless blue skies. This is hot and humid territory - all the houses were constructed to make the best of sea breezes - but we had apparently timed this holiday perfectly in October. Only a fortnight ago it had apparently been steamy. For us it was just comfortable.




Temple Mickve Israel, a synagogue designed not to look too out of place with Christian churches






Coming away from the waterfront district you pass through all those wonderful squares and eventually reach Forsyth Park, which is well worth the walk.
























City Hall
With this huge Mississippi paddle steamer docked, it would almost have been rude not to take an afternoon boat trip down the river. Another excellent choice on our part. We even saw bald eagles, but my photographic skills (and equipment) weren't up to capturing them. Settled for bridges, which are easier.




Yes, this is what it looked like on deck.




The modern road bridge is quite sculptural, if functional. You can see its predecessor, or what is left of it, below it.













The Westin Hotel and convention centre
Savannah is quite a cultural spot, so I managed top persuade Thibault into the art galleries too. Just about the only decent modern building in Savannah (and apart from the odd hotel the centre has few twentieth century buildings at all) is the Jepson Gallery








More traditional was the Telfair Academy for the Arts









Our last night in Savannah involved having dinner with some family friends of Thibault who lived in the city. It was a very convivial experience. Good food and flowing conversation. Of course they wee Thibault's family friends, but they wee more my age, so that balanced things out. We liked Savannah.

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