Monastiraki and Plaka

These are two neighbouring districts just to the north of the acropolis. They are characterised by lots of winding small streets. And if I got lost in the National Gardens I got doubly lost here, even with a map and guide book.

The Plaka district is an obvious choice for food so I went in search of lunch. The place is on a hillside so there are rows of street s with tables outside, some just on steps going down between one street and another. I picked a p[lace which was supposed to be good for seafood, but having chosen some was told it wasn't on the menu yet because of it being Easter Monday. So kleftiko for me and frankly not as good as I find in my home district off Green Lanes. Although I have top say the setting is infinitely nicer!

Almost next door to the restaurant was one of many tiny churches that are scattered throughout the area.

On the edge of the Plaka is the main cathedral, Mitropoli. It took 20 years and three architects to build it, using marble from 72 demolished churches. Sadly not a great result.

The tiny 12th century church Panagia Gorgoepikoos  right next to it is much more attractive. Its apparently known as the Little Cathedral.

 The modern one may not look great from the outside, but isn't too bad. But the interior is truly gloomy. I can only say my photos put it in a better light than reality.

The little cathedral is not the only byzantine or neo-byzantine church in the area. They would look better if not completely hemmed in by modern shops. This one is I think Agios Nikolaos Ragavas

One feature of the south of Monastiraki is the Roman Forum.

Fethiye Mosque

 The most remarkable survival from the period here is the Temple of the Winds. It is a sort of ancient weather centre. It was part weather vane but also included a water clock, although all that is left of the mechanism are the grooves where the bronze and wood fittings would have been.

 

But this area is also tourist central. Shopping is supposed to be part of the experience in these tight streets. Personally I don't see much attraction in endless shops selling tourist tat.

 Now at this juncture I should make some mention of the Greek economy. From what we have heard in the media there are practically people starving in the streets. That is not the general feel I got from central Athens. Its bursting with coffee shops and all the paraphernalia of a Western City. It could certainly do with some tidying up, but then it could have done 35 years ago when I last visited.Actually its in a lot better condition than I remember it.

That isn't to say there aren't some areas that could do with a bit of work. Below is an example of a, for Athenian standards, quite grand building which is clearly in need of TLC. A doer upper I think its known in the trade.

 Another feature of Athens, which can't be blamed on austerity, is the awful graffiti, much of it cheek by jowl with the heritage sights.

 And this is a bit of ancient drain, now part of the metro system. The metro stations are like small museums in their own right.