Friday 13 August 2021

Greenwich west walk to the Rangers House

Greenwich station is a bit misleading. As it stands it is sprawling mess, and the DLR and rail stations are not really the same, just connected by walkways. But what is interesting about Greenwich station proper (below) is that it it is one of the oldest stations in the world, dating to 1840. What strikes me about it is the way that it doesn't look like a station. More a grand Georgian house. And that shouldn't be surprising as at this point railway architecture hadn't developed. This was a prototype in a way, built in in the manor of an existing form of building before new forms developed for the purpose.

If you are wondering why such an old station would be here, well Greenwich had long been a place of residence for the better off, so really no surprise that the world's first commuter rail line for profit should be constructed here a line from London Bridge to Greenwich started in 1836 built by the London & Greenwich Railway Company. Corporations called after what they did in those days. That is only 10 years after the famous Stockton & Darlington Railway although that was basically for hauling coal.




Opposite the station are a charming courtyard full of almshouses, dating from 1819, although the foundation of the almshouses dates back to the 16th century.






A somewhat later construction, and one rather dominating the district, is the former town hall built in 1939




West Greenwich Library

This little modern memorial is on the side of the microscopically small Burney Street Park



Walking up Royal Hill is just a very pleasant experience as it is lined with fine 18th and 19th century houses





Point Hill offers great views across London









And then one comes to the Rangers House, the stand out building on the west side of Greenwich Park. A Georgian villa built in 1723 for the top end of society - originally senior naval figures but in time it became the residence of the Greenwich Ranger - which was an honorary role rather than one connected with any job relating to the park. A grace and favour residence for the Crown. 

It is now an English Heritage building. I had never visited before, not least because it had ridiculous opening hours, like being closed Fridays and Saturdays. The contents have no relation to the house, being a recent addition after the house had been used for various purposes during the 20th century, frankly no one quite knowing what to do with it. But now it is used to hold the Werner Collection, which previously was at Sutton Hoo. The collection far precedes the house since it is largely consists of  Renaissance works collected in the late 19th century by Sir Julius Wernher, a diamond magnate who made his money in South Africa.






Even if you don't go in the house you can enjoy the gardens behind it which are gorgeous

























 

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