Thursday, 12 July 2018

Kenting to Hualien - Taiwan's south west coast

Taiwan's south west coast features high cliffs and scenic views, but a little hard to appreciate fully in the rain. Although the view below should give an impression. Would be nicer still with a blue sky backdrop than a grey one.


Despite the rain we made a stop at a park which allowed one access to the coast and some interesting rock formations going into the sea, being the product of old volcanic activity.
















A brief and somewhat offbeat diversion was to see this water channel. which appears to be a display of water running uphill. It is an optical illusion however. And really not one that can be captured in a photo.


 However, the unexpected highlight of the day was a place called Sanxiantai.



Here was nature reserve in the form of an island to be reached only by a rather bizarre bridge.





 As you can see, very much a pedestrian bridge only.


Onto the island reserve there is a nice boardwalk that you can walk around easily. But beyond it (which Thibault hadn't realised on his previous visit), there is a rather more difficult trail up to the top of the peak. It is this that was the most worthwhile part, if somewhat more demanding.



A slight diversion takes one into a cave.



This bit of volcanic rock scoured by the sea would make an excellent science-fiction setting
 As I say, a more demanding trek. After clambering over rocks by the sea there was steep climb to look forward to.

But one was rewarded with great views (and yes by now it had stopped raining).


Even Thibault felt this was worth photographing.

But then you had to make the return journey. A pretty steep descent.


I think this is particularly nice vista, the rugged shoreline, sea and all framed by angry grey clouds in the distance.


From there we headed on to Hualien, and having arrived fairly late decided to head on promptly to night market for food from the numerous stalls.


Unlike the rest of our stay where we had used large hotels, here we chose a highly rated B&B in a residential area. The quaintly named Jasmine Orange was triumph. We got all the personal attention you might want from a place that had only a handful of rooms, but to my pleasant surprise you lost none of the equipment that you might expect in a larger establishment. The rooms were very well appointed around a pleasant courtyard. Only downside was that outside the rooms, there lurked quite vicious mosquitoes. I am still scratching the bites!



Tuesday, 10 July 2018

Kenting

The drive to Kenting was a wet one.





 But we were promised a lunch at a harbourside group of restaurants offering fresh fish and seafood at low prices. And Thibault delivered here. 40 pieces of sashimi for about £5. Unbeatable value, although certainly not a fancy restaurant. More a cafe with plastic tablecloths. And it was dry.













Back outside, any hopes of snorkelling were rather dashed by the weather, or if you attempted it you would have been dashed against the rocks.














One of the more bizarre features of the area is a site where natural gases escape from the rock and are constantly alight - even in the drizzle. So obviously you have to see them. A boy scout's dream.





We went for (at my insistence) one of the classier resort hotels in Kenting, Caesar's palace, although to be honest once you got past reception it was a little disappointing. The rooms were quite small.



 But the balcony did give a nice view over the hotel pool area.




While Thibault (in lieu of missed karate) and Clarissa hit the hotel gym (also very small) I went for an evening swim in the pool. Which was rather nice, even in low level drizzle. It was certainly warm enough.

Dinner was in the night market, essentially the main street in Kenting becomes lined with food stalls at night and one can browse. Which we did, although frankly things looked rather better than they tasted.

In addition to teh stalls for food there are pop up bars. And at a Jamaican reggae bar (yes, in Taiwan) we had cheap cocktails, and for about he fourth time of the day, including our lunch time restaurant, we came across a French couple (and you notice westerners out here as we rarely came upon more than a handful each day). So we finally decided we ought to speak to them and see if they wanted some company. Luckily they did, and we proceeded to stay out drinking until nearly 5 am, going on into a much more expensive bar, taking in the Portugal v Spain world cup match (on between 2 and 4 am) and playing a game of darts. Well, we were on holiday.

Next day it was wet again.  I mean torrential rain. We had promised to take out our French friends again - they had no car and a hired scooter wouldn't be much fun in these conditions. So we searched for some indoor activity beyond eating and only came up with, ironically, an aquarium. But to be fair a pretty good one.
































A particularly nice conceit to wards the end of our walk around the aquarium was a narea mocked up to be a shipwreck.
 

 But a sadder one was a tank with a couple of beluga whales, who did not look happy.


Back to the hotel; to dry out and watch the sun go down.



ten back onto the rainy streets of Kenting.










Next morning a last chance to hang around in the opulent surroundings of the hotel reception area, while Thibault braved the monsoon to bring  the car round for us > as you can see, I wasn't exaggerating about the rain...