Tuesday 28 September 2010

Kafue


































So down to what its really all about - going out on game drives and seeing (and photographing) the wildlife. And as you can see, Kafue has lots to offer. Certainly augmented by Mukambi lodge itself. As you can see, lovely little hut/chalet to myself overlooking the river. Woken first morning by lions just outside it. I would like to say the roar of lions, but actually it was the grunt. Lions grunt as they walk, and this pride were just passing through in the small hours of the morning. Well it makes a change from being woken by the Today programme on Radio 4. And the lodge has its own "pet" hippo, Basil. Actually its perfectly wild, but is not as shy as most of humans and so will happily, as pictured, chomp grass on the lodge lawns. And indeed sometimes just settle itself in front of the bar, so requiring an alternative method of getting in. You definitely do not want to climb over a live hippo. They are very big.

We got into routine of being up in time to set off for first game drive at 6am (Only item I didn't think of packing was gloves. Its very cold first thing.) Then back for breakfast around 10 am and out for next drive at 4.30pm, watching sunset and then night drive with a spotlight for nocturnal animals. First afternoon we also went on a boat cruise down the Kafue, from which we were also able to see a lot of wildlife. Most interesting was a stand off between a large herd of buffalo wanting to come down to drink, and a couple of crocodile wanting, well its obvious what they wanted isn't it. Crocs stayed where they were, and so did the buffalo. We hadn't time to watch the denouement, if there ever was one.

Second afternoon the girls went fishing while I decided to hit the extremely attractive, but unheated pool. Really couldn't have been designed to look any cooler, although the lack of cushions meant the loungers were for those desiring a firm posture. And it took a while before I got so hot I wanted to ease myself into the water, as inviting as it looked. Still there was no one around to watch my less than brave entry.

Of course lots of wildlife on the drives - great set of antelope - impala, kupo, kudu, bushbuck, duiker, hartebeest and more. Elephants of course. But highlight was the lions. I am used to the bored lion sitting by the road, which we got again. Great for taking photos. But the special thing I had never come across was a lion creche. About 10 cubs being guarded by a "sub-adult". Basically the equivalent of getting your 10 year old to baby sit a group of toddlers. Lions are at the very crap end of parenting skills. Cubs get the left-overs of a kill, if there are any. And if a new male takes over a pride, well its King Herod time for the infants. Tough start for what are very cute little cats.

And I could burble about watching the sunsets with a cold beer, but I won't. Well not just yet.

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