Monday 9 February 2015

Pulau Mamutik

The top reason for coming to Tanjung Aru is to visit the tropical islands just off the coast and enjoy the snorkelling. Now I was determined this time not to make the two mistakes I made the last time I visited here. The first time I went out, I got a horribly sunburnt back and the second time I stood on a stone fish and had to be whizzed off by speedboat for medical treatment (a large injection up the backside). So this time I was armed with crocs for my feet, flippers and a life-jacket.

Mamutik is the smallest of the islands, being about 15 acres. Now there are areas roped off for snorkeling use on the beach, but there was a guy who came across on the boat with us (first sailing of the morning, they are hourly from 9am) who would take us out on a snorkeling tour if we wanted.

So I agreed to go off on this snorkeling tour, just me, a family of four and the guide. The family of four were from Australia, but had actually emigrated from Manchester, so they didn't have Aussie accents. They were a very nice, middle-aged couple with a boy and a girl in early teens, both very sporty. The lad was a serious swimmer, the daughter a gymnast, ie all much fitter than me. 
Now we had done a bit of snorkeling on our own in a cordoned off area on the beach, and it was nice enough. Indeed you didn't really need any gear, or even to swim as you could just wade in and you would be surrounded by tropical fish. But the guide was going to take us out for an hour beyond the area marked off by buoys. 
At the outset I have to say this was amazing. The sheer proliferation of fish and coral. It was like watching a jungle safari from above. Crystal clear water and just endless different fish and corals, parrot fish, angel fish, groupers, eels, wrasses, and countless others. Amazing bright colours, some incredible deep blues. And corals of all shapes and sizes from ferns to brains. All that was missing was David Attenborough's breathy tones, which I missed as would like to have known what I was seeing. 
Now we were there for what seemed ages, possibly because we were not a top snorkeling crew, possibly because with just us we could stay out as long as we wanted. My companions said afterwards they reckoned we had swam about 4 kms, which is way more than I can actually swim. The discrepancy is explained by the fact we were wearing life vests. Therefore we were only doing the propulsion bit, the floating was being done by the vest. Nevertheless I was pretty knackered by the end and it had started to become an exercise more than a leisure activity. It was only then that I understood why. We hadn't just gone out to a coral reef, we had circumnavigated the entire island, and not in a neat circle but dodging in and out. (The island being Mamutik I hasten to add, not all of Borneo!)

Anyway, that explained why I was so tired. 
I thought I was pretty much protected from the sun by the jacket. Well thankfully it did indeed protect most of my back and the factor 50 seemed to work on my bald spot. However, despite my precautions I was still left with three sources of pain. First the area under my shoulders, sort of round my armpits. Ouch when putting on a shirt. Then a narrow strip around my waist which must have been the gap between the jacket and my sagging trunks. Ouch when putting on shorts. And all down the back of my legs. Just ouch. So basically I was fine apart from sitting, walking or lying down (other than on my tummy). Liberal application of after sun and some cool showers and baths were the best I could do for a couple of days thereafter. I just read on the balcony of my room. But that was no hardship.

Maybe I will come again and this time go for the full body suit. Because trust me the snorkeling was amazing. One of the best things I have ever done.


Transport to the islands


So here is the island. Tropical paradise? Check.













A rival boat






The lad of the couple I went snorkeling with, and the only one of us not to get sunburnt. Mother and daughter like me were hitting the after sun gel back at the hotel. Guess he got away with it as used to swimming long distance in Australia. Probably one of the advantages of being brought up in Queensland rather than Manchester.





After the snorkelling I went for a little trek through the interior. Nothing too exciting, unless you like tree roots.








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