The Bowes Collection

The Bowes Collection in Barnard Castle in County Durham is the product of a couple of rich Victorian collectors, John & Josephine Bowes. Being in County Durham, not exactly convenient for a Londoner. I hadn't previously visited it, which I cured in my latest visit to Newcastle. And it was well worth the wait. All housed in what I would describe as a Victorian chateau.

 The collection is totally eclectic. It just has all sorts, so there is an archaeological collection next to a gallery of childrens toys. But it also has so many examples of things that it allows odd comparisons. So, for example here is a Chinese Palanquin, and an English Hansom cab

 There are excellent collections of furniture, especially of the Empire style.

a

 There is a wonderful gallery using various interiors, usually rescued from about to be demolished houses, which allows one to trace in one room English tastes in interior decor over the centuries, and in the next gallery you get the same for English dress.

But the real star turn of the museum is the silver swan which sits in the picture gallery. It has over 3000 parts and is an example of tremendous 18th century workmanship and technology. This automaton is only wound up once a day, whereupon for 30 seconds you get the music of church bells, while the swan moves its head from side to side then dips down and appears to have collected a silver fish in its beak. What is so remarkable is the naturalness of its movement. No wonder it draws a crowd.

 The picture galleries are very interesting although there are few well known artists represented, an exception being two comparatively recently acquired Canalettos.

The hanging is in the traditional manner with paintings being placed above one another high on the room, meaning one has to get forward to read blurb and then well back to appreciate the higher hung works.

 

Bust of Napoleon

 Where it falls down compared to most country houses is the lack of grounds. A walk around them is truly a five-minute job.