Sagrada Familia

So, having just looked at the gothic cathedral I went straight to the Modernist version, Sagrada Familia. Given construction work is continuing, its difficult to know whether one is describing a contemporary building or a Victorian one. It was started by Gaudi in the late 19th century and was far from complete when he was killed by a tram in 1926. It has had a few hiatuses since, but apparently there is an aim for completion between 2020 and 2040.

But at least  now the nave is fully roofed. Some of the modern sculpture I have to say is so far cruder than the earlier work that it does feel a bit like skimping on quality.

 But it is a quite stunning building, inside and out. On the outside, well the scale is impressive. So indeed is the inside, but there I feel its the light that is so attractive. When one compares the heavy dark interiors of gothic churches, it is quite amazing to see the openness of Sagrada Familia, even though in terms of structure it doesn't seem so different to its medieval predecessors. Its light, and bright and subtly colourful due to the stained glass.

However, it is also I suppose a failure. I say that because Gaudi was a very religious man (surprising in someone so inventive) and Sagrada Familia is just not a cathedral. It is just a tourist destination bursting at the seams with gawping heathens. Despite all the signs to the contrary it does not feel in the slightest bit spiritual, in contrast to the City's older churches and the cathedral. Admittedly the noise of the ongoing construction doesn't help. But there is a certain King Canute feel to the attendants trying to keep the central part for prayer by not letting people stand and take photos. All it means is that Japanese tourists occupy the chairs and from a sedentary position continue to snap away.

Indeed, while wandering around I got a call on my mobile from my agents, appropriately enough given the environment, declaring a miracle. The hotel I was being chucked out of on Friday because they had overbooked relented and would take me after all. A church attendant looked daggers at me, but to be fair I was hardly disturbing the silence given the chatter of a thousand tourists and a circular saw cutting through stone overhead.

 Note the variety of pillars - granite above, limestone below - the pale grey ones, and porphyry (purplish pink ones) in the distance.

 

Just about my favourite part is the cross, suspended rather than occupying one end. There is even a black and white photo of some chap modelling for this precise pose.

 

 After wandering around enough I then took  the opportunity of taking the lift up one of the towers to admire the views, followed by the slightly scary job of descending by spiral staircase.

 Its a long way down.

Workers hard at it. only another 20 years to go boys.

 

Detail of bronze doors

The more modern sculptures - compare to those of the nativity near the top of this entry. Remind me of Marvin the Paranoid Android. Not impressed.